It is Tuesday evening and I begin classes at Hebrew University tomorrow. It has been a whirlwind last couple of days moving around, meeting people, and getting oriented. Monday morning I very happily left the hostel and spent the morning at the Robinson excavations in the Old City of Jerusalem. Archaeology has always fascinated me and actually was a major reason I chose to study anthropology in university. Also interesting to note that originally the word coined in Hebrew for “archaeology/archaeologist” was derived from the verb “to reveal”—however, today, we say “archaeologia” because the original word (to reveal) is used when you describe strippers. I’ve never heard of an archaeologist who was a stripper in their spare time, but it would be a great Hebrew pun.
Anyway, what made my time at the excavations so much more interesting were my interactions with the different groups there and comparing my previous experiences in the location to today’s layout. First a little frame of reference, the Robinson excavations are all around the Western Wall. Earlier this year there were Arab riots over the continuing excavation in the area because there was concern that the excavations were aimed at weakening the foundation of the Al-Aqsa Mosque. Having been there yesterday, I can tell you first hand—that is ridiculous. The work being done now is no where NEAR the mosque and certainly not below it to disturb any foundations. Historically, the Robinson excavations uncovered the life of Israel from the second temple period (up until 70 CE). The temple used to be only used for religious purposes, specifically sacrifices. People would travel to Jerusalem to make an offering usually coinciding with a festival or planting/harvest season. The excavations uncovered what was the market outside the synagogue where people could pay for sacrifices or trade goods. This was also the place where the cohenim (priests) and levites (2nd in command) would read Torah during the week—the origin of reading Torah on Monday and Thursday mornings in addition to Shabbat! The idea was for the commoners to fulfil the mitzvah (and obligation) of hearing the parsha without ever having to disturb their normal shopping routine. Cool, eh?
Directly behind the market were ritual baths that were used to purify oneself before making the sacrifice. These are really cool because there is a path to walk down the “dirty” side and a path to emerge from after being immersed in the water. Lots of Jews still go to the mikveh to purify themselves. From there you would walk up Robinson’s Arch (aptly named after the guy who found it) into the Temple Mount to make your sacrifice. Basically, in case you can’t tell, I am REALLY into all of the archaeology/history of this site…but I tend to ramble, so I will move on ☺.
After my time at the archaeology site, I taxied to the Ramah offices in Jerusalem to have lunch with my friend Arie Hasit. Arie is working with the Ramah Seminar groups who are in Israel for six weeks during the summer and is studying for his masters at Tel Aviv University. Ami Yares, another good friend who’s been living here all year, is also working there for the summer. His band Holler! plays at a local pub each week. It was fun seeing who else I knew that was there—turns out my cousin Yoni “G” Grundland, who was in Israel for the last six months, roommate and good friend is also working for Ramah Seminar. Yoni, if you’re reading this, he (and I) say hi!
That late-afternoon I went to Kfar hastudentim (the Hebrew U student village) to spend the night with Ariel who has been studying Arabic there for his PhD program at Northwestern. He met me outside…and walked right by me! Didn’t recognize me with all the hair and sunglasses—my hair is the longest it has ever been, yikes. It was great to see him. We hung out for the rest of the day, made dinner, and I crashed at his place in anticipation of getting my own room the next day (today).
Tuesday morning I walked to the Hebrew University campus to register. It was really hot out and it made the walk a bit less comfortable than preferred. The campus is still filled with Israelis because of the student-strike last month over tuition prices. I really like hearing all the Hebrew as I walk through the campus, however, when I got to the International School, it was as if I was not in Israel at all! Everyone was speaking English, all the signs are in English, and no one will speak Hebrew to you unless you initiate it and CONTINUE using it as the conversation progresses. Not my favorite attribute of the school so far.
One great thing has been the people. They are wonderful. I have met students from around the country and world. Most are Jewish, but not all. Also, my group, the Summer Institute for Israel Studies, is relatively small so it has been a nice change of pace from the masses of people at the UW. After orientation and a short tour of campus I got my housing assignment…twice. The first time the keys to the apartment didn’t open the door to my room, so I ended up five floors above Ariel in a cluster with four Israelis! It is a wonderful situation to be in because I want to continue progressing in my Hebrew but I am able to walk outside and see friends from my classes—and besides, the roommates are all very nice and fun to hangout with!
Aside from the confusion of classes, translations, and necessities, I am working hard on learning everyone’s names. Also, my friend Dani Charles, who I went to Israel with four years ago, worked with at Ramah, and is Avi’s cousin, is here for the summer as well—always nice to spend time with him. There seems to be more and more students that I know who are here for some program or another—it’s nice!
Anyway, that’s enough for now—I think it’s shorter than last time. Classes start tomorrow and I need sleep! Good night for now.
Col tuv,
AVI
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